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Almond Oil:
Almond oil is finely textured & lightweight, therefore it is easily absorbed by the skin. It contains a large amount of Essential Fatty Acids, vitamin E & phytosterols. When used topically, these compounds in the oil can relieve irritation, dryness and inflammation. They have also shown to reduce the severity of skin conditions like acne and psoriasis. Almond oil promotes water retention & collagen production in skin, softens it and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Studies have shown that almond oil can also protect the skin from the damage caused by UV radiation. Anecdotal evidence suggests that continued daily use of almond oil can reduce the appearance of dark circles under eyes, smooth and rejuvenate skin to reduce post-operative scarring & through its emollient and sclerosant properties, improve skin tone and complexion.
Handmaiden Natural Skincare uses fresh, cold pressed almond oil in my Nourishing Make up Remover and Cleanser: Formulated to gently dissolve grime and dirt, deeply cleanse pores & remove make up. Lightly scented with Rose Damask, Geranium and Lavender essential oils, it will transports your senses, whilst almond, macadamia & sesame oils, and Shea Butter, deeply nourish & protect your skin, allowing dirt to be washed away without stripping your skin of its natural protective barrier. $25 for 100ml, and my Hydrating Daily Moisteriser: This is a light, easily absorbed cream made from a powerful blend of botanical oils, including Almond, Moroccan Argan, Rosehip and Red Raspberry seed. Enriched with Rose and Frankincense essential oils, vitamin E and Seabuckthorn extract, it will deliver a magnitude of vitamins, minerals and anti-oxidants, and leave your skin feeling velvety soft, supple and hydrated.
AHA’s:
AHA’s or alpha hydroxy acids are a group of acids found in plant and fruit sugars. In skincare they act as exfoliants.:they slough off the top layer of dead skin cells by dissolving the ‘glue’ that binds these cells together. Using an AHA’s on skin regularly removes any dead cells as said before, exposing the new cells beneath so leaving your skin looking fresh and glowing. This is a natural process that slows as we age, resulting in a dull complexion. The accumulation of dead cells can also enhance other issues like acne. This process also stimulates cell turnover, resulting in regular new healthy cells which may reduce the appearance of surface acne scars, some pigmentations and enlarged pores. The anti-inflammatory properties of AHA’s promote blood flow to the skin, allowing oxygen and nutrient rich blood to reach the cells. There they also assist in removing old collagen fibre to make why for new ones, this helping to firm up the dermis to make skin plump and smooth. To top it all of, AHA’s save you money. By removing the dead cell build up on your skin, it allows the products you apply after to reach the intended new skin cells and go to work hydrating and nourishing them, rather than sit on top of the dead debris.
Where can I find these miracle workers? you ask. Look in your kitchen, milk yogurt, strawberries, citrus fruits, tomatoes, apples, sugar cane they all contain different AHA’s, useful for different skin conditions. You can simply cover your face with food, or use Handmaiden Natural Skincare’s Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser. It contains ingredients that, when mixed with water, activates lactic acid, as well as a physical exfoliant, to gently exfoliate your skin. Your skin will immediately feel softer and look fresh, bright & plump, but other results may take a bit longer.
* It is important to note that the use of AHA’s on skin do make your skin more sensitive to UV damage and extra sun protection should be taken.
* If at any point your skin starts to burn or sting wash off immediately.
* Citrus, especially lemon can be very irritating on skin, please do a patch test to check for sensitivity.
Avocado Oil:
Topical use of Avocado oil will soften and hydrate skin. It’ll appear plumper and brighter. It’s anti inflammatory action and anti oxidants will also heal and smooth skin. Your skin is an amazing organ that will soak up everything you put onto it. Applying avocado oil topically, will deliver vitamins A,B, C, D, E & K; minerals like copper, magnesium & potassium; beta-carotene, omega 3 and lots of essential fatty acid straight to where your skin needs it. Beta carotene is a powerful antioxidants that destroys free radicals. It provides protection for your skin from environmental damage that causes fine lines and other signs of aging. Vitamin C has strong antioxidant properties and promotes the creation of elastin and collagen, two of the building blocks to firm, plump skin. Vitamin E is known to reduce the effects of UVA and UVB radiation from sun exposure on the skin. Avocado oil has a very high oleic acid content, a monounsaturated fatty acid that maintains moisture in the epidermal layer of your skin. It helps to make your skin feel soft and hydrated, and improves regeneration of damaged skin cells, thereby reducing redness and irritation. Find it in my Radiant Aloe Moistertiser. Active Ingredients: Active skincare is skincare that contains active ingredients. Active ingredients are the ingredients that make the product do what it is supposed to do, the ingredient or chemical that makes the product work. In skincare this will be the ingredients that repair, rejuvenate, protect, hydrate and nourish the skin. Examples you may have heard of are alpha hydroxy acids, retinol (Vitamin A), Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinimide (Vitamin B3) and many more. These can be natural or synthetic. In botanic active skincare like Handmaiden Natural Skincare, I use the whole botanic base and essentials oil, rather than a processed, concentrated version that may cause irritation. Botanic base oils are loaded with naturally occurring minerals like copper, phosphorus and magnesium; vitamins A, all the B’s, C, E & K & essential fatty acids. Essential oils are full of antioxidants, anti inflammatories and lots of them are anti-microbial. As well as many other active plant compounds. Plant extracts and floral waters contain many polyphenols, tocopherols, and phytosterols. Polyphenols are active ingredients with anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and anti-DNA damaging activities. All of these are active ingredients, as they are what makes natural skincare able to rejuvenate, nourish, protect and restore your skin. Inactive ingredients in skincare also play a role to support the active ingredients, and improve the texture and ‘feel’ of the product.
Apple Cider Vinegar:
Vinegar in skincare? It may seem strange but apple cider vinegar has great anecdotal skin benefits. It contains many Alph Hydroxy Acids like malic, lactic and acetic acid, and has a high phenolic content. Your skin naturally has a slightly acid pH, but lifestyle and skincare choices can slightly alter it, making it more alkaline, and therefore more favourable for unwanted bacterial growth. AHA’s are acid and acts as buffers to rebalance skin’s pH, restoring then acid mantle. They also act as very mild exfoliators, dissolving the ‘glue’ that keeps cells together, removing dead skin buildup, increasing the cell turnover and promoting collagen production. This also help to smoothen skin, improving skin tone and reducing pore size. By decreasing the production of melanin, it can also reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. The abundant polyphenols present have antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant qualities. Studies have suggested that ACV kills the bacteria that contributes to acne. Combining this with its anti-inflammatory action makes it useful in reducing acne, and potentially an effective spot treatment against breakouts. The antioxidants in ACV fight free radicals that increase the appearance of skin aging. When using high quality ACV made naturally using the fermentation process, you are adding probiotics to your skincare regime. This will help to control the levels of good and bad bacteria on your skin. It is imperative though that apple cider vinegar is diluted before used on the skin. ACV is highly acidic and can burn, especially if you have sensitive skin. Always, when using homemade or store bought skincare, do a patch test to ensure your skin can tolerate the new product. If it becomes sore, itchy, starts to burn, becomes red or inflamed; wash it off immediately and discontinue use.
You can make your own ACV Toner at home by adding 5 ml of organic ACV to 95 ml of water. Place in a spray bottle and use after cleansing, before moisturising twice daily. If DIY isn’t your thing, I highly recommend my Refining Rosemary Toner, with added Green Tea Extract and Rosemary Essential Oil for smooth, plump and refined looking skin.
Argan Oil:
Moroccan Argan oil is a golden oil that is worth it’s weight in gold for skin health. The main reason being it’s incredible amount of naturally occurring Vitamin E. Vitamin E plays a protective role: it is an excellent anti-free radical and antioxidant that protects Vitamin A and Fatty Acids in the body. It also protects the fibroblast of skin, the cells that make elastin & collagen. It prevents cell ageing through oxidation & brings nourishment to cells, reducing inflammation and strengthening capillary walls, thereby reducing scarring and stench marks. Squalene is a compound found in a Argan oil that is also naturally produced by the skin to keep it soft and supple, protects it from damage and heals wounds. Argan oil is full of polyphenols, a natural component of plants. They are anti almost everything: septic, inflammatory, ageing, -oxidants & allergy. Also found in Argan oil are phytosterols that are lipid-like and increase skin metabolism, reduce inflammation and protect collagen. They have been shown to increase elasticity in skin. Argan oil has a high concentration of fatty acids, notably Omega 9, oleic acid, and Omega 6, linoleic acid. They both play a vital role in the health of cellular membranes, keeping skin elastic & firm, and increasing the moisture retention. They are also very important to the formation of prostaglandins, a natural anti inflammatory and healer that assists in cell development and growth.
Argan oil can be used on its own, straight onto your skin, just gently massage a few drops into cleansed skin. Or, you can try my Daily Hydrating Moisteriser, with Argan, Rosehip and Red Raspberry Oil. It is light, but powerful & effective.
Aromatherapy:
Aromatherapy (Aroma + therapy) is the study and use of essential oils and natural plant extracts medicinally to promote holistic health and well being, physiologically, psychologically and emotionally. Essential oils are plant extracts found in flowers, leaves, bark, seed, fruit or resin. The essential oils are present in different areas like pockets and reservoirs, glandular hairs, specialized cells, or even in the intercellular spaces. They are a mixture of saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbons, alcohol, aldehydes, esters, ethers, ketones, oxides phenols and terpenes, which may produce characteristic odours. Plant extracts have been used medicinally for at least 6 centuries, in many different cultures across the globe, and is the basis of modern medicine. The term aromatherapy was coined in 1937 by a french perfumer, Rene-Maurice Gattefosse, after he healed a burn wound with lavender oil he was distilling. Aromatherapy can heal the body, mind, spirit & emotions. Applied topically, molecules are absorbed through the skin, or inhaled, diffused molecules travel through the nose and mouth, into the lungs. Either way the molecules travel via the olfactory system to the limbic and hypocampus areas of the brain. There neuro messengers like seratonin and endorphins are released to link our nervous and other body systems. The proximity of the olfactory bulb, where smells are processed, to the hypocampus, where memories are processed; and the amygdala where emotions are processed, is why smells have such a strong link to memories and emotions, and how a smell can transport you through time, place & feeling. The antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory nature of essential oils along with immune boosting, hormonal & emotional calming effects, and memory & alertness enhancing properties are well documented by many scientist. Growing conditions in different areas affect the chemotype and therefore qualities of every individual oil, so it’s vital to know the growing location of your oil to use it effectively. Essential oils are very concentrated, and when choosing them you should always ensure they are 100% pure. Topical application can cause irritation or burns and no oil should be used neat on skin, always do a patch test, never take them internally, and should never replace the health advise of your doctor. They do however play a very valuable role in management of mild pain, insomnia & stress relief and emotional balance & well-being. And they smell fantastic! In skincare those same antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory and balancing qualities are what make them so valuable. They deliver subtle and natural support to your skin, creating equilibrium and enhancing its natural qualities and appearance.
Handmaiden Natural Skincare uses only the best, 100 % pure essential oils I can source from around the world, chosen specifically for their individual health and beauty enhancing qualities. For effective, luxurious and ambrosial products you will love to use.
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Beeswax:
Beeswax is the building material of the amazing structure that bees build to house their honey. It has, along with other bee products, been used medicinally for centuries and is having a revival in cosmetics today. When added to skincare products, beeswax acts as an emollient and humectant. This combination allows it to attract water into the skin, moisterising, conditioning and softening the skin. It forms a protective barrier over the skin, reducing transepidermal moisture loss while still allowing it to breath. This protective barrier reduces the ability of environmental pollutants (smog, smoke etc.) to enter your skin, and cause damage. By being anti-allergenic and providing our skin with a gentle, but efficient protective cover, beeswax significantly reduces, and sometimes even completely eliminates itching. Beeswax’s anti-inflammatory properties allow it to soothe and calm irritated skin. Being anti-bacterial and anti-fungal it protects against pathogenic microorganisms. When added to products it has been shown to be very effective against dermatoses causing bacteria. B-carotene in beeswax is a valuable source of Vitamin A. In the skin Vitamin A stimulates cell turnover, and reduces collagen breakdown, thus allowing skin to regenerate faster, reduce healing time in wounds, and reduce the appearance of scarring.
Handmaiden Natural Skincare’s Happy Lip Twist contains beeswax, to sooth & heal chapped lips and protect them, whilst softening & hydrating them.
Borage Seed Oil:
Borage seed oil is pressed from the seeds of the Borage plant. It is also know as Starflower oil, named after the beautiful bright blue star shaped flowers the plant bears profusely. Both the leaves and the flowers are edible, and make a great addition to your garden as it is pest repelling and bee attracting. Borage seed oil is noteworthy in skincare as it can consist of up to 24% gamma linolenic acid (GLA).
Why is GLA important to us you may ask. Well, healthy skin relies on an adequate amount of lipid for moisture, smoothness and suppleness. This lipid consist of certain polyunsaturated fatty acids, called essential fatty acids (EFAs), most importantly in skin care and easing skin disorders are the omega-6 group of EFAs, namely GLA (gamma Linolenic Acid)and LA (Linoleic Acid). They are both structural components of healthy skin membranes, that maintain the integrity of the epidermal layer, keeping water in and toxins out, and so protecting cells from irritants. When you lack omega-6 it manifests as scaly skin, increased cell turnover as seen during psoriasis, weak capillaries that burst easily, and higher trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), leading to dry skin. Dry skin (xerosis) can make other skin conditions worse, and as we age, our skin becomes thinner and that may also contribute to TEWL. Some skin disorders may occur due to ineffective processing of EFA. To convert LA to GLA requires the presence and action of an enzyme called delta-6-desaturate (D6D), without it you will be deficient. Studies have found that people with skin disorders like eczema, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show an increased level of LA, with a simultaneous decrease in GLA, to strongly suggest a reduction in D6D activity. GLA is also a precursor for other substances like prostaglandins E1. This helps to maintain healthy skin by improving blood flow and reducing inflammation. Oral and topical application of borage oil has been noted to increase GLA and PGE1 in skin, thereby restoring moisture & smoothness, and reducing dryness and redness from environmental damage. Topical application of Borage seed oil is absorbed quickly and has been found to be more effective than other oils in preventing and treating skin inflammation & some skin disorders, with a progressive and marked improvement on TEWL.
Find Borage oil in Handmaiden Natural Skincare’s Radiant Aloe Moisteriser, a light, easily absorbed gel moisteriser enriched with Borage, Wheat germ and Rosehip Oil, and my Everlasting Eye Oil, with Evening Primrose Oil, Calendula, Carrot seed and Helicrysum Oil.
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Cocoa Butter:
Most people are pretty used to seeing Cocoa butter as an ingredient in their body care products. But what is it really and why do should you be using it? Cocoa butter used in skincare is the same cocoa butter used in chocolate production, before all the sugar and milk is added! It comes from the seeds found in the fruit of the cacao plant. These beans are fermented, roasted, ground and then the butter is separated from the liquor, to leave behind the cacao (powder). There are different quality cocoa butters available, at different levels of refining, to remove impurities, smell etc. The more refined it is the less effective some of the compounds may be.
The main chemical constituent of cocoa that are of benefit to skincare are its abundance of Fatty Acids & vitamins E and K. The FA’s present are Oleic, Stearic, Palmatic, Linoleic, Arachidic and Palmitoleic Acids, that separately and together:
* act as moisturisers;
* protect the skins’ natural barrier thus reducing trans epidermal water loss ;
* act as an emollient to create a protective barrier & to soften skin;
* have cleansing properties by attracting dirt and oil;
* acts as an emulsifying agent to bind oil and water;
* Increase the synthesis of elastin and collagen; * exhibit anti-inflammatory properties;
* facilitate wound healing;
* soothes and promotes healing of some skin conditions.
* and serve many more functions.
Vitamin E in Cocoa butter has been well documented as being super for skin health. It is an antioxidant that provides photo protection to the skin, preventing UV induced damage to the skin, as well as being a natural anti-inflammatory, assisting in would healing. It soothes burns, and when applied directly will ease skin conditions like eczema, dermatitis and rashes.
You can rub cocoa butter straight into your skin, it should melt at around 34- 37 degrees celsius, or find it in my Luxurious and Extra Love Body Creams.
Carrot Seed Oil:
The humble carrot is well known as an easy addition to your everyday diet, but did you know of its skin benefits?
Eating carrots will improve your overall health and digestion, and therefore improve the health of your skin. Carrots contain Potassium, a deficiency of which causes dry skin. High fiber and nutrient content means consuming carrots encourages better digestion; which in turn means, internal toxins are eliminated more efficiently, reducing your skins’ toxin shedding burden, thus less congestion and clearer skin.
But topical application of carrots also offer benefits. Carrots have long known to be healing and making a mask of mashed, cooked carrot, either on it’s own or mixed with honey, will reduce inflammation on any blemishes where applied, help to heal any open wounds and leave your skin glowing.
Carrots also provide us with skin benefitting oils. Carrot infused Oil and Carrot Seed Oil are both confusingly called Daucus carota, but these two oils are very different.
Carrot oil is made from infusing the carrot root in base oil. The oil is bright yellow in colour and very high in Vitamins A and E, beta-carotene and carotenoids, Carrot infused oil is therefore choc full of natural antioxidants. These anti-oxidants have been found to enhance the body’s ability to protect the skin from UV damage and are strong free radical blockers; hence this is an ideal oil to add to anti-aging preparations. You can make your own carrot infused oil at home by seeping your carrot peels, pulp from juicing or grated carrot in a base oil like coconut oil for 72 hours. Please do a patch test before using, and be aware it may stain your skin.
Carrot seed oil, however, is aromatherapy’s most undervalued oil.
Light in colour with a fresh, woody and fruity aroma, it has a calming and grounding effect on your mind, and helps to dispel negative and stressful feelings. It has detoxifying effect on the liver, muscles and joints, and it is therefore useful to sufferers of gout and arthritis. It also helps with fluid retention, and improved red blood cell production.
When applied topically Carrot Seed Oil has a softening and smoothing effect on the skin, assisting in cell growth and rejuvenating the skin. It tones the skin and adds elasticity to help prevents sagging. Carrot seed oil can cure infections on the skin and in open wounds, as it has strong anti viral qualities. The abundance of anti-oxidants repair a lot of the damage done to your tissues by free radicals and stop them from doing further harm, thus reducing the appearance of, preventing further wrinkle formation.
Carrot Seed oil features in Handmaiden Natural Skincare’s, Everlasting Eye Oil, where it is synergistally blended with Evening Primrose, Borage Seed, Calendula and Helicysum oils to create an Eye oil that is rejuvenating, protecting and nourishing.
Carrier Oils:
Carrier oil or base oil is the name given to a large variety of oils that are used as the base for skincare products, and as carriers for essential oils. This is important as it’s imperative that essential oils are used in dilution, as full strength essential oils are incredibly concentrated and potentially harmful to humans. Carrier oils are also sometimes referred to as fixed oils, as they do not evaporate quickly, like volatile essential oils, but remain fixed on the skin.
The main differences between essential and carrier oils however, are the part of the plant used to extract it. Essential oils are distilled from the aromatic parts, like flowers, leaves, bark and roots of plants, while almost all carrier oils are extracted from the fatty areas like seeds, nuts and kernels. Exceptions to this rule are coconut oil extracted from its flesh, and jojoba oil, actually a liquid wax, obtained from the plant leaves.
To date, these carrier oil seldom play the starring role in formulations and often cheap, inferior oils are used to keep the cost of products down. But, as there are so many powerful plant based carrier oils to choose from; I feel they should be just as considered as other ingredients in a formulation.
Every carrier oil has its own distinct characteristics like colour, odour, viscosity and speed at which it penetrates the skin, as well as the shelf life and nutritional properties that it brings to the end product.
There are a few different methods extracting carrier oils. Generally seed and nuts are cold pressed, expeller pressed, which is commonly identified as RDB (refined, deodorised, bleached); oil maceration, or solvent extracted. High quality carrier oils will be as unadulterated and natural as possible, and are mostly cold pressed. To be classified as raw this process should take place Under 45 degrees Celsius.
The absorption rate of oil will determine whether the end product is easily absorbed, and light; or slow to absorb, heavy and will leave a moisturising film on the skin. A medium or fast absorption rate will result in a silky and smooth feeling product, which hydrates without leaving a barrier on the skin.
Another determining factor in carrier oil choice is the actual composition of the oil in terms of the nutrients that it provides to the formulation. The most obvious ones are fatty acids, but carrier oils also come with a wealth of fat-soluble vitamins, minerals and other micronutrients, which is why I find them so exciting.
Fatty Acids are a very large group of compounds that form the building blocks of fats. They can be essential or not (essential nutrients cannot be made in the body, therefore need to be introduced for health), and include well-known Omegas 3,6 & 9, (Alpha Linolenic, Linoleic and Oleic acids respectively), and many others like Palmitoleic acid. Collectively they are fantastic moisturisers. They maintain the skins’ oil barrier, tighten and brighten skin, maintain soft- & suppleness, and nourish cells, whilst eliminating toxins. They exhibit anti-inflammatory properties, soothe acne and protect skin from antimicrobial and environmental damage.
The most common vitamins found in carrier oils are vitamins C and E, as well as pro Vitamin A. These vitamins are antioxidants, they maintain and repair skin cells; and they hydrate the skin. They are said to reduce lines, even out skin tone, help control acne and exhibit anti-inflammatory qualities.
Carrier oils have a vast amount of trace minerals present: manganese, copper, selenium, zinc and many more, depending on the oil. When applied to skin, they encourage exfoliation, brightens dull complexion, balances oil production, maintains moisture levels, keeps skin firm and smooth, and protects against environmental damage.
Phyotosterols or plant sterols are a group of fat compounds found in plant membranes. They have a significant anti-inflammatory effect on skin, and are said to boost immunity, promote new skin growth, boost collagen production, reduce sun damage and reduce the appearance of scars, age spots and blemishes.
When formulating natural skincare recipes, I like to blend different plant based, natural carrier oils. Favourites of mine are Almond, Argan, Rosehip, Avocado, Macadamia and many many more that I have and will individually discuss in other posts.
The process of blending allows me to design the exact right feel for my products, and I can include specific components to achieve a synergistically superior, specific product.
I have focused this discussion on plant based carrier oils, but they can also be animal (emu) or mineral derived. I choose to never use mineral oil as it is made from refined petroleum. The oil particles are too big to be absorbed by your skin, so it will just sit there and potentially clog pores; and it contains no nutritional value, so it brings nothing to the table for me.
I choose to use fresh, plant based and powerful carrier oils in my natural skincare products, because Handmaiden products are effective, nourishing and protective, so your skin is healthy, glowing and beautiful.
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Lavender:
Lavender, and its highly versatile oil needs no introduction, it’s been used for centuries for healing, beauty and cooking. That is hardly surprising as it contains a plethora of chemical compounds that make it useful to us.
These compounds include flavonoids, like what we find in fruit and vegetables, and coumarin. And just like our healthy diet is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, so is Lavender essential oil. It is important to note that there are many, many varieties of lavender, each with their own beautiful variation of flower, leaf or scent. Within these varieties there are differences or chemo types too, depending on where it is grown, and the growing conditions. (like you would find variations in grapes and wines, made from those grapes.) Every chemotype has a different chemical composition and therefore has different functionalities.
But, what they all have in common is the ability to balance: your body, your mind, your senses to restore health.
They are all highly anti microbial, meaning they are antibacterial & anti fungal, making it excellent for wound management. Studies have found that Lavender essential oil increased post-operational collagen production leading to faster would healing. Lavender EO also has pain reducing and anti inflammatory properties.
Lavender oil in skincare benefits skin through the same properties, anti inflammatory properties calm the skin of redness, antibacterial properties reduce severity of blemishes, and antioxidants fight the damage caused by free radicals from the sun, pollution and lifestyle choices. This action effectively reduces the appearance of fine lines. By increasing wound healing, it reduces the prevalence of scar tissue . Lavender EO is excellent at regulating skins’oil production and balancing skin pH.
Lavender EO has the ability to regulate the nervous system, thus reducing anxiety, calming the mind and could assist with treating depression. It can also support melatonin regulation thereby reducing time to go to sleep and increase duration of sleep time.
So many benefits from a plant so humble and easy to grow.
Handmaiden only uses 100% Pure & Natural French Lavender.
Botanical Name: Lavandula angustifolia
Country of Origin: France
Part of Plant Used: Flower Heads
Method of Extraction: Steam Distilled
Only the best essential oil for optimum efficacy and ultimate luxury.